Skemerkelkresepte, spiritualieë en plaaslike kroeë

Is Grenache die nuwe Pinot Noir?

Is Grenache die nuwe Pinot Noir?


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Terugskouing is natuurlik 20/20, en as ons terugkyk op die toename in gewildheid wat Pinot Noir die afgelope dekade beleef het, kan u 'n paar faktore sien wat daartoe bygedra het dat die druiwe in fortuin styg. Natuurlik ken ons almal 'n aansienlike impak toe op die film Sideways, wat Pinot Noir soos geen ander druiwe voorheen verheerlik het nie. Voeg hierby die groeiende bewustheid van die sogenaamde Franse paradoks en die passievolle affêre van die wynbedryf met Pinot Noir, en u het al die stukke in plek, behalwe die verbruiker.

Nou hier is die snaakse ding. As u verbruikers vra hoe hulle van Pinot hou, sal hulle u 'n paar dinge vertel. Die wyne is vrugtig, dit is ook sag en maklik om te drink, of is ten minste geneig tot die gewildste inkarnasies. Die snaakse ding hier is dat hierdie styl, winsgewend soos dit ook al mag wees, nie dekades lank die passie van wynboere gedryf het nie. Nee, daar is baie min wynmakers wat daaroor droom om 'n vrugtige, maklik om te drink Pinot te maak van vrugte wat op die platteland geboer word in 'n bietjie terugwater -appellasie. Die bedryf wil kuns maak, die verbruikende publiek wil in die algemeen iets drink wat lekker is. Waarom hierdie kwessie opper? Ek dink dit kan baie goed wees deur die lynchpin wat die hele Pinot Noir -trein uitmekaar trek.

Met die verbrokkeling tussen produsente en verbruikers wat inherent is aan Pinot Noir, moet u dink hoe lank die Pinot -golf kan aanhou groei. Eintlik sou ek sê dat ons waarskynlik 'n hoogtepunt bereik het, beide onder en bo -aan die mark. Te veel goedkoop, slegte Pinot Noir word nou in marginale groeistreke geproduseer, en te veel, slegte Pinot Noir word geproduseer in wat ons glo die grootste aantreklikhede vir die variëteit is, soos byvoorbeeld in die betekenislose Sonoma Kusbenaming wat oor meer as 'n halfmiljoen hektaar strek. Kortom, ek glo dat ons al meer hektaar Pinot geplant het as wat daar groot akker beplantbare grond is. Dit is nie 'n ongewone situasie nie. Kyk net na Cabernet, wat omtrent oral geplant word en op baie plekke ordentlike wyne produseer, maar net 'n paar goeie wyne. Ons weet almal, omdat ons herhaaldelik deur die kennisse meegedeel is dat Pinot 'n nog stouter druif is, wispelturig en minder vaardig is om aan te pas by terroir wat buite die gemaksone val.

So daar het ons dit. Ons maak meer gebruik van die ligte, vrugtige, lae tannien -maklike drinkstyl van Pinot Noir wat verbruikers wil hê, en wynmakers stel nie daarin belang nie omdat die mark dit vereis. Die mark vereis dit tot 'n sekere mate omdat die bedryf Pinot Noir verheerlik het, een van die wêreld se werklik edele variëteite wat in die bedryf aanbid word. Die twee style het natuurlik min gemeen, die kommersiële wynstyl en die Grand Cru -pogings, so hoekom veg ons nie vir 'n verandering nie. Ek sal begin. Ek was oor die jare nogal hardop oor my algemene afkeer, maar afkeer is miskien 'n sterk term vir Grenache. Dit is 'n druif wat baie min vir my doen, maar dit is ook 'n druif wat groot hoeveelhede vrugtige, lae tannien kan produseer, maklik om te drink. Ek drink 'n redelike hoeveelheid van hierdie wynstyl, hoewel dit afkomstig is van Barbera, Dolcetto en Sangiovese in teenstelling met Grenache. Dit is reg vir my en my smaak, maar vandag het ek 'n standpunt ingeneem vir Grenache!

U sien dit het my 'n geruime tyd geneem, slegs ongeveer 30 jaar, om my kop te draai oor die konsep van wynwaardering. Baie min mense steur hulle aan dinge soos terroir, tipiesheid en dies meer; die meeste mense wil net hê hul wyn moet lekker smaak. Pinot Noir is feitlik gebou op tipiese en terroir, wat, soos ek voorgestel het. het moontlik gehelp om 'n sekere aantreklike mistiek daarby te voeg. Dit help ook om te verduidelik waarom mense nie van 'n spesifieke Pinot hou nie, nie dat dit reg of verkeerd is nie, alhoewel dit meer verkeerd as reg is. Laat ons eerlik wees, die mense wil hê wat die mense wil hê, en ons in die bedryf bestee baie moeite om hulle te oortuig dat 'n spesifieke wyn/streek/handelsmerk is wat hulle wil hê. Wel, raai wat. Wat hulle wil hê, is Grenache, vrugtige, amper versuikerde, maklike drink, uitbundige Grenache en die waarheid is dat waarskynlik meer as die helfte van die Pinot -wingerde in Kalifornië beter geskik is om presies die Grenache te produseer as Pinot!

Ons het dus die perfekte samevloeiing van 'n mark wat dringend soek na 'n wynsoort wat op maat van Grenache lyk. Ons het ook duisende hektaar wingerde in Kalifornië, om nie te praat oor die hele wêreld nie, wat ideaal is vir Grenache, 'n berugte sterk wingerdstok wat bekend is as 'n wonderlike produsent. Al wat ontbreek, is die kritieke/industriële lof! Dit bou geen twyfel nie, maar daar is 'n hoë mate van wynsnobisme wat hierby speel, en waaraan ek self skuldig was. Dit is tyd om verder te gaan, en met die hulp van die bedryf. My onlangse besoek aan die wynland van Santa Barbara was hoofsaaklik te danke aan 'n belangstelling in Grenache uit 'n streek wat 'n welverdiende reputasie onder die variëteit het, en Rhone -variëteite in die algemeen. Wat ek geproe het, het my verder gehelp om te oortuig dat die tyd van Grenache kom. Dit is tyd om die wyndrinker daar buite te laat weet dat 'n wonderlike Grenache beter is as 'n mal Pinot, en dikwels dieselfde prys!

Met een oog op die nie te verre Grenache -dag 2013, Vrydag, 20 September, gaan ek die bal aan die gang kry met hierdie handjievol resensies. Ek hoop dat dit u aanmoedig om Grenache 'n eerste, tweede of derde probeerslag te gee. Grenache het regtig alles wat nodig is om die volgende Rockstar -wyn te wees, wat sal nodig wees om dit oor daardie rand te stoot? Ek het ook 'n paar mengsels wat op Grenache gebaseer is, hier ingesluit, en hoewel dit 'n meer interessante wyn uit die wynmaker of wynperspektief kan meebring, glo ek nie dat hierdie versnitte werklik sal help om die verbruikersbasis van Grenache te verbreed nie. Syrah en Mourvedre is net te selfgeldend en belemmer na my mening die uitdrukking van die suiwerheid van vrugte na my mening. Ek sien die toekoms van Grenache, die sukses van Grenache gebaseer op die suiwerheid en toeganklikheid. Ek beskou die toekoms van Grenache as 'n wyn met 'n variëteit.

Klik hier vir meer inligting oor Grenache en die beste wyne om te koop.

Gregory Dal Piaz, Glad


Vergeet Pinot Noir: Grenache kry uiteindelik die respek wat dit verdien

As jy skryf oor drank vir die lewe, behandel mense jou soos 'n wyngids wat vleis geword het. En die enigste raad wat ek meer as enige ander vra, is: "Wat is die beste pinot noir onder $ 50?" My antwoord is altyd dieselfde: "Grenache."

Grenache, een van die wydverspreidste druifsoorte ter wêreld, is sedert ons vroegste wynmaakdae in Australiese grond gewortel en word al te veel jare ondergewaardeer. Maar dit verander.

Dit is 'n goue era van grenache, 'n geseënde tyd wanneer insiggewende en progressiewe wynmakers dit die respek gee wat dit verdien.

Dit is die geneigdheid van die variëteit vir parfuum en sappige soepelheid om vergelykings met pinot noir uit te nooi, maar die verskil is dat grenache kan floreer op plekke waar pinot eenvoudig sy kak sou verloor.

In sondeurdrenkte Spanje noem hulle dit garnacha en is dit die mees aangeplante variëteit in die land. Dit floreer deur Suid-Frankryk, op plekke soos Languedoc-Roussillon en die onderste helfte van die Rhône-vallei, en is die kern van een van die wêreld se grootste appellasies, Châteauneuf-du-Pape.

Hier in Australië, net soos onbetroubare energievoorsiening en die vermoë om woorde soos 'dans' en 'toeval' korrek uit te spreek, is 'n besonderse Suid -Australiese ding 'n wonderlike grenache.

Alhoewel daar klein sakkies grenache op plekke soos Heathcote in Victoria is, is die oorgrote meerderheid aanplantings in Suid -Australiese grond - en die grootste deel hiervan is die stedelike Adelaide -wingerdboeke, die Barossa -vallei en McLaren Vale.

Beide streke het 'n aansienlike aantal ou grenache -wingerde, 'n erfenis uit die vroeë dae van Australiese wyn toe variëteite wat nuttig is vir die vervaardiging van versterkte wyne bevoordeel is. Waar die wingerde vroeër groot oeste superryp vrugte uitgepomp het om port te maak, word hulle opgelei vir 'n baie laer opbrengs, en gee net 'n paar trosse gekonsentreerde en diep geurige druiwe prys.

In slim wynmaakhande produseer hierdie vrugte wyne met verleidelike parfuums, lewendige teksture en gevaarlike drinkbaarheid. Nou is dit tyd om die pinot -gang te ontduik en self te probeer.

Vanguardist Grenache 2016 ($ 50)

Die bebaarde, vatborstige Michael Corbett het verlief geraak op grenache terwyl hy in Suid-Frankryk gewerk het, en sy ywer dryf hom nou om hierdie veelvlakkige, pragtig gebalanseerde en saggies gekruide stunner van ou wingerde by Blewitt Springs in McLaren Vale te produseer. Halfpad deur die eerste glas, sal jy begin besef waar hierdie gons oor grenache vandaan kom. 'N Ster aan die opkoms.


Eenvoudige Rooiwyn Spritzer Resep

In ons wêreld is wyn -cocktails altyd 'n goeie idee. 'N Goeie wyn -skemerkelkie is lig, verfrissend en perfek vir watter grootte partytjie jy ook al hou, want dit kan in porsies gemaak word. Van spritzers tot sangrias, wynkocktails gee pret en feestelikheid aan 'n aandete of brunch met min werk en baie gejuig. Maar ons is lus vir 'n goeie rooiwyn -spritzer, en ons is hier om u te oortuig waarom 'n rooiwyn -spritzer u kenmerkende drankie moet wees tydens u volgende byeenkoms. Maak gereed om oortuig te word van hierdie lekker-bruisende konkoksies!

Is rooi, wit en rosé wyne anders?

Baie mense glo dat rooiwyn gemaak word van rooi druiwe, witwyn van wit druiwe en rose van pienk druiwe. Ons gaan 'n kolossale F vir onwaar op die bewering plaas! Dit is waar dat alle wyne van druiwe gemaak word. Die fundamentele onderskeid tussen die drie is hoe dit geskep word, en veral tydens die fermentasieproses.

Witwyne kom van wit en selfs soms swart druiwe. Tydens die wynmaakproses word die sap van die druiwepitte geskei, en slegs die sap word gebruik om wyn te maak. By die maak van rooiwyn en selfs roos word die druiweskille en sade nie verwyder nie, net soos in die vorming van witwyn. In plaas daarvan word hulle met die sap in die roesvrye staalbakke gehou terwyl hulle fermenteer. Dit is die vel en sade wat die kleur skep, en 'n ryker geur in rooi en roos.

Die onderskeid tussen rooiwyn en roos is die lengte van die totale tyd wat die sap saam met die skil en sade spandeer word. Terwyl rooiwyn 'n lang voorbereidingstyd spandeer, is roos se sap 'n kort tydjie, net genoeg tyd om sy pragtige pienk kleur te kry.

Bestaan ​​rooiwyn -skemerkelkies?

Wat 'n dom vraag! Natuurlik doen hulle dit, en ons is hier om u te vertel dat hulle pragtig is! Ons is sulke groot aanhangers, ons het 'n hele paar blogs oor hierdie tipe cocktail geskryf! Kyk na hierdie blogs (nadat u hierdie een natuurlik gelees het): Rooiwyn -skemerkelkies: 3 resepte vir die drink van winters, wat om met wyn te meng: die perfekte cocktail.

Die waarheid is dat daar geen beperkinge op wyn is nie - u kan elke soort wyn kombineer met elke drank waaraan u kan dink om die perfekte balans te vind. Maar sommige kombinasies is meer ikonies as ander: sangria kombineer rooiwyn met vrugtesappe, suiker en brandewyn, terwyl kalimotxo Coca-Cola en rooiwyn kombineer, albei hierdie cocktails moet by jou lysie wat jy moet probeer!

Wat is 'n Rooiwyn Spritzer?

Spritzers, soos Aperol Spritz, is heerlik as jy lus is vir 'n glas wyn en wil hê dat dit 'n aangename drankie moet wees sonder om bekommerd te wees dat jy dit oordryf. Deur die sodawater, vonkelwater, Sprite of seltzer wat u gebruik om die wyn te verdun, te meng, kan u u drank aanpas en u drange bevredig. Hulle smaak nie net lekker nie, maar hulle is ook lekker om te maak en kalorieë laer.

Daar is 'n paar dinge wat u in gedagte moet hou as u 'n wynspritser, of dit nou witwitspritzer of 'n ander soort spritzer is, maak. Die eerste is om 'n wyn te kies wat u geniet - slegte wyne moet nooit gebruik word nie, want as ons eerlik is, word dit nie beter met 'n skeut koeldrank of La Croix nie!

Namate u meer en meer spritzers begin maak, begin u met die bou van u nuwe resepte om by u drange te pas en u eie vonkelwyn te maak. Die enigste sleutel tot 'n goeie spritzer is 'n balans tussen die wyn, borrels en ander bestanddele. In wese is u missie om te voorkom dat nie-alkoholiese bestanddele die kollig steel! Kombineer dit met lekker kos en maak gereed vir 'n lekker aand.

Watter rooi wyne is die lekkerste in spritzers?

Die beste wyne vir spritzers is dié met baie vrugtesmaak, min tannien en vrugtige geure. Ons stel Port, Gamay, Pinot Noir en Greneche voor. En 'n ekstra persoonlike voorstel van ons: bly weg van vooraf gemengde spritters, dit het 'n kunsmatige smaak en sorg nie vir heerlike drink nie.

Poort

'N Port spritzer is die beste manier om Port te drink en die heerlike smaak van Portugal te geniet, sonder die gewig en natuurlik die rooiwyntande! Nog beter, daar is min of geen voorbereidingstyd by die gebruik van hierdie ongelooflike skemerkelkresep.

Gamay

Die Gamay Noir is 'n maklik om te drink spritzer wyn. Dit is ideaal vir somersaande of middae - en dit is 'n goeie manier om die smaak van rooiwyn te kry sonder al die intense geure. Die wenke van tertkersies en wilde aarbeie skep 'n ligte, verfrissende drankie wat goed pas by kaas, brood, salm, gebraaide eend en pizza.

Pinot Noir

Verpak met komplekse geure, insluitend kersie, sampioen, framboos en bosvloer, is Pinot Noir ongelooflik as 'n spritzer.

Grenache

Grenache, 'n wyn met 'n onmiskenbare versuikerde oprol van vrugte en kaneel, is medium-vol en bevat meer alkohol as ander rooiwyne. Om 'n spritzer met Grenache te maak, is 'n maklike manier om op 'n ligter, warmer weer die heerlike eienskappe te geniet.

Wat is 'n paar maklike wynresepte -resepte?

Rooiwyn en Cola

Luister na ons: die meng van rooiwyn en Coca-Cola word 'kalimotxo' genoem. In die 1970's was hierdie drankie ikonies en het dit oor die grense van Spanje versprei om een ​​van die bekendste internasionale drankies te word. Dit is 'n mengsel wat gelyke dele cola en rooiwyn bevat met ys en 'n bietjie suurlemoen. In wese is dit 'n maklike alternatief vir sangria wat u nie die volgende dag ernstig sal laat spyt wees oor u besluite nie.

Granaatappel spritzer

Granaatappelspritzers, gemaak met tonikum, granaatappelsap en 'n skeut suurlemoensap, is 'n maklike skemerkelkie wat elke seisoen geniet kan word. U kan dit aantrek vir 'n vakansiebyeenkoms of dit aantrek vir 'n skemerkelkie wat die beste by die swembad geniet word! Alhoewel daar baie ander resepte vir hierdie skemerkelkie is, is die granaatappelspritzer gewoonlik granaatappelsap gekombineer met wodka en rooiwyn.

Rooiwyn Berry Spritzer

'N Rooiwynbessie -spritzer is 'n verfrissende skemerkelkie wat altyd koel, kalm en versamel is. Dit is propvol aarbei- en bloubessiegeur en is die ideale skemerkelkie as jy kalorieë en koolhidrate probeer kyk, maar jou drankie aan die gang sit!


25 van die beste Pinot Noirs vir 2020

Sedert Paul Giamatti poëties geraak het oor die "dunvelige, temperamentele" Pinot Noir in die film "Sideways, ”" in 2004, het die edele druif sy gewildheid onder wyndrinkers die hoogte ingeskiet. Popkultuur se sterre opsy, daar is baie om te weet en lief te hê oor Pinot Noir: Die wispelturige en terroir-aangedrewe druiwe word bewonder vir eienskappe soos die diep rooi kleur, note van weelderige bessies en rook-en soms onbetaalbare pryse.

Ja, omdat Pinot Noir moeilik is om te kweek, sal die koste van 'n goeie bottel dit dikwels weerspieël - maar dit beteken nie dat dit nie moontlik is om 'n goeie, bekostigbare Pinot te vind nie. In die afgelope ses maande het VinePair 'n reeks uitsonderlike Pinots geproe en beoordeel, waarvan baie verbasend bekostigbaar is (selfs die waardige uitstortings beloop minder as $ 100).

Hieronder is 25 van die beste Pinots Noirs wat u tans kan koop, volgens rangskikking en prys. Alle resensies is deur Keith Beavers, direkteur van VinePair -proewe, geskryf.

Dit is die laaste kurkentrekker wat u ooit sal koop

Long Meadow Ranch Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2016 (A+) ($ 39)

Dit is 'n helse Amerikaanse Pinot Noir. Om jou neus in die glas te steek, gee jou 'n blaaskans soos jy wil, waarvoor ?! Dit ruik in die herfs na kersiekola, kaneel en 'n bos. Die smaak is so sag dat jy daaraan wil kou. Die mondgevoel is so syerig en delikaat dat ek net 'n bietjie koue kon ontspan met 'n paar peuselhappies en goeie vriende. Dit is as u selfs wil deel.

Boogskietberaad Wynkelder Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2017 (A+) ($ 45)

Voordat jy jou neus uit die glas haal, het jy 'n paar keer gesnik, gekerm en vervloek. Dit is 'n ware Amerikaanse, nee, Willamette-styl Pinot Noir. Dit is die soort Pinot wat sê ek is nie 'n Bourgondië nie, ek is almal Oregon! Met gefokusde suur kersies en 'n tikkie klapper, is die neus opgewonde en sal u soos 'n sirene -liedjie aantrek. Die smaak is vlesig, vet en taai (jy sal regtig voel jy wil die wyn begin kou) en sal lank na die eerste sluk op jou smaak sit. Hierdie wyn is slegs beskikbaar op die webwerf van die wynmakery, maar as u ooit wil ingee en e-handel doen, is dit beslis die prys werd (aflewering ingesluit).

Gary Farrell Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir 2016 (A+) ($ 50)

Wat doen jy om te lees wat ek tik? U moet eerder probeer om hierdie wyn te vind, want dit is een van die mooiste Pinot Noir -wyne uit Amerika wat tans op die mark is. En sodra u dit gekoop het, maak u gereed om nie te deel nie. Binne hierdie bottel is daar geure van kersies en kaneel met 'n paar sampioene, maar dit is nie belangrik nie. Wat belangrik is, is dat hierdie wyn u fisies sal beïnvloed. Dit is taai, sag, soepel en trek net in jou smaak. Jou endorfiene sal afbrand, en jy sal verswelg. Koop dit nou.

Cakebread Cellars Two Creeks Vineyards Pinot Noir 2017 (A+) ($ 51)

Het u al ooit 'n groot klompie druppige dagga geruik? Steek jou neus in hierdie glas en jy sal weet hoe dit is. Ek het nog nooit so 'n Pinot geruik nie. Onder die intense cannabis -aroma is geroosterde koffie en gedroogde kersies. Dis moerig! In die smaak wil jy net die wyn kou omdat dit vlesig en taai is. Hierdie wyn is bedwelmend voordat jy besope raak.

Peter Zemmer ‘Rollhutt ’ Pinot Noir 2017 (A) ($ 19)

JO! Hierdie wyn is fantasties! Gaan vind dit! Dit is 'n sagte, elegante styl van hierdie druif wat nie gereeld buite sy huis in Frankryk gesien word nie. Van die heuwels van die Dolomiete kom hierdie pragtige wyn met donker kersiegeure en effense sweempies koffie in vars grond gevou. Die mondgevoel is 'n sagte wolk van ontsagwekkende in die smaak. En dit is minder as $ 20!

Siduri Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2017 (A) ($ 26)

Groot Pinot Noir uit hierdie streek is geneig om 'n bietjie duur te wees, so dit is lekker om 'n wyn soos hierdie met 'n ietwat sagter pryskaartjie en baie balans en kompleksiteit te hê. Dit is soos om kersie -cola te ruik wat gemaak is van regte kersies in 'n hipster -broeikas -voedselkompleks in Brooklyn wat langs vars grond lê. As ons van hipsters praat, is daar ook 'n groot hoeveelheid geroosterde koffiebone. Die verhemelte is helder, maar lê regtig in jou smaak met 'n mooi, lang afwerking. Ek wil hierdie wyn net teen sononder oopmaak en met goeie vriende deel.

Gary Farrell Russian River Selection Pinot Noir 2017 (A) ($ 39)

Dit is hoe dit gedoen word! Hierdie wyn is so 'n goeie voorbeeld van die rede waarom Russiese Pinot Noir -aanhangers hul kop verloor deur so 'n bottel te drink. Die balans is onberispelik. Die vrugte is elegant, maar kragtig, en vul jou smaak en brein met breë, harmonieuse geure van kersies en kaneel, met 'n sweempie witpeper en herfsblare. En al die beskrywers wat ek net genoem het, is cool en alles, maar wat regtig saak maak, is hoe hierdie wyn jou laat voel. Dit is 'n verdomde plesier om te drink.

Domaine Matrot Auxey-Duresses 2016 (A) ($ 40)

Hierdie wyn, wat die Beaune werklik kanaliseer, is swaar op die neus en lig op die mond. Die neus is dig, alles oor donker kersie, vanielje, naeltjies en ander speserye. Dit is 'n lekker swaai. In die mond dryf die wyn egter. Die mondgevoel is sag, met 'n fluweelgehalte. Vir $ 40 is dit 'n goeie inleiding tot die delikate krag van hierdie Bourgondiese gebied.

Big Table Farm Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2017 (A) ($ 48)

Ek voel asof dit die soort Pinot is wat ons verlief geraak het op hierdie streek. Dit is helder en gevul met kersies met 'n sweempie rook. Die smaak is lewendig, maar diep genoeg dat jy net daaraan wil kou. Met 'n effense koue sing die wyn 'n deuntjie - of dit is ek - wat die subtiele tannienstruktuur van die wyn na vore bring. Dit is duur, maar as jy 'n heerlike nag beleef, kan jy nie hier verkeerd gaan nie.

Angela Estate Abbott eis Pinot Noir 2015 (A) ($ 57)

Hou u 'n luukse ete en soek u 'n bottel om u vriende te beïndruk? Dit is die een. U kan almal snaaks word en noem dat dit 'n mengsel van drie verskillende Pinot Noir -klone is (Pommard, Dijon 777, Dijon 115), of miskien praat oor die Bourgondiese karakter, maar u moet die wyn net laat doen die praat. Dit is ingewikkeld en genuanseerd en het 'n uitnodigende neus met geure van tertrooi bessies, gedroogde blare en vars grond. Die rooi bessies gaan voort op die verhemelte, wat tekstuur en mineraalryk is. Bedien met beesvleis Bourguignon vir 'n pasmaat wat in die Pinot -hemel gemaak word.

Domaine Matrot Blagny La Piece Sous Le Bois Premier Cru 2016 (A) ($ 60)

Dit is drie jaar oud en benodig meer tyd, maar drink nou goed. Dit is 'n diep, deurdagte Pinot Noir met donker kersie- en swartbessie -note saam met 'n paar hartige kruisbessies. Die tanniene is nog steeds 'n bietjie ornerig, maar die vrugte kom lekker deur die smaak met natuurlik 'n perfekte suurgehalte. Dit is nie 'n slegte prys vir 'n wyn gemaak van 'n klein stuk grond nie.

Domaine Bernard & Thierry Glantenay Les Santenots, Volnay Premier Cru 2016 (A) ($ 85)

Dit is 'n wyn waaroor Miles gepraat het in sy monoloog in “Sideways. Dit is baie delikaat en elegant, met 'n mondgevoel wat jou smaak wil opneem en in jou sintuie wil sweef. Donker kersies meng met subtiele vanielje en kruidnagel speserye wat in die kern van die wyn geweef is. Dit is duur, maar as u 'n spesiale geleentheid het, moet u dit oorweeg.

Vinum Cellars Pinot Noir 2017 (A-) ($ 15)

Dit is nie maklik om 'n goeie Pinot Noir vir 'n weeknag onder $ 20 te vind nie, so dit is 'n goeie idee. Dit is sappig en vurig en ruik na kersies en kaneel saam met die vars grond uit jou tuin. Dit is lewendig in die smaak met 'n tert vrugtekern. Dit is 'n wonderlike bottel om met vriende te deel of 'n paar glase saam met u en Netflix te neem.

Calmere Estate Winery Pinot Noir, 2016 (A-) ($ 30)

Ek is soos 15 persent alkohol? Regtig? Wyn is soos, ja. Ek voel asof ek dit nie op die neus of verhemelte kry nie. Wyn is soos ek weet. Ek is soos, verdomp. Dit is so 'n gebalanseerde en kragtige Pinot Noir. Die neus is aards en helder, met die geur van rooi bessievrugte en 'n bos in Oktober. Dit gryp jou smaak, maar dit oorweldig nie. Ek is asof daar 'n Pinot Noir is vir 'n groot steak, dit is dit. Wyn is soos, bring dit aan.

Bravium Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2016 (A-) ($ 31)

Selfs met 'n lae alkoholgehalte, kry hierdie Pinot Noir regtig 'n knou. Die vrugte is tert, maar gebalanseerd, met 'n vrugtige kern waarop jy wil kou. Die klassieke geure van suur kersies en 'n bietjie vanielje van eikebome rond die wyn regtig af, met 'n ekstra subtiele kaneelbonus. Die warm dae en koel nagte van Medocino kom deur hierdie wyn.

Fort Ross Winery Sea Slopes Pinot Noir 2017 (A-) ($ 32)

Jy pluk in Oktober sampioene in 'n bos terwyl jy kersiebalsem van jou lippe aflek. Dit is die neus van hierdie wyn. Dit is 'n wonderlike Amerikaanse Pinot Noir. Dit is gebalanseerd en effens grys, met 'n ronde suur wat van die smaak af kom. Die prys is reg vir 'n geskenk vir 'n genadige gasheer (slegs as hulle dit op stat #feelme gee), of om tydens 'n speletjie-aand of 'n wyn- en kaasbyeenkoms te bring.

Domaine Matrot Monthelie 2016 (A-) ($ 43)

Bekostigbaar vir die streek en pak 'n broeierige Noir -pons. Donker kersievrugte, vars grond en 'n tikkie vanielje begroet u op die neus. Die smaak het 'n lekker tanniese greep vir 'n Pinot wat verwelkom in 'n wyn uit 'n streek wat bekend is vir sy maer rooi. Dit het 'n klassieke etiket, is baie aangenaam en sal u nie prys vir u volgende intieme aandete nie.

Oceano Spanish Springs Vineyard Pinot Noir 2018 (A-) ($ 45)

Sjoe. Hierdie wyn is heerlik! Dit is 'n bietjie duur en slegs aanlyn beskikbaar, maar dit is goed. Dit het die sentrale kusstyl met sappige kersie -kola -vrugte en 'n sweempie kaneel. In die mond wil jy net kou met sy vlesige, taai mondgevoel. Dit is 'n bottel om uit te trek saam met goeie vriende en ligte vleis soos eend of gebraaide hoender.

Sokol Blosser ‘Goosepen Block ’ Pinot Noir 2017 (A-) ($ 85)

Pinot Noir kan verouder en dit is 'n bottel wat dit bewys. Daar is magie hier, maar nie vir 'n jaar of wat nie. Agter tannien en 'n bietjie skaam vrugte ruik jy die toekoms, wanneer die wyn ryp is met kersievrugte en aardse grond. As u dit nou opdis, sal dit asemhaal en dit sal goed gaan, maar as u wil weet hoe hierdie druiwe ontwikkel, wag 'n jaar of twee, dan sal hierdie bottel u wys.

Peregrine Mohua Pinot Noir 2017 (B+) ($ 21)

Wil u buite u gewone Pinot -plek waag? Hierdie bottel is 'n goeie inleiding tot die styl van Pinot Noir in Sentraal -Otago, Nieu -Seeland. Dit het 'n ryk, tert kersie -gevoel met 'n effense plantnoot (soortgelyk aan die bitterheid van radicchio). Die mondgevoel is taai en laat jou daaraan kou. Dit is sag, maar het diepte, en kan goed saam met 'n lamsgereg of op sy eie pas, net met goeie vriende en 'n kaasbord.

Domaine Hippolyte Reverdy Sancerre Rouge 2016 (B+) ($ 26)

Dit is 'n soliede Pinot Noir van Sancerre. Dit is 'n bietjie rof om die kante, aangesien die tannien nog 'n bietjie orent is, wat die kernvrugte wat 'n pragtige kersie- en aardaroma bring, belemmer. Ek is seker dat met 'n jaar of wat in die bottel dit 'n bietjie sal poets. Dit drink nou lekker en kan goed doen tydens 'n aandete, maar dit kan ook 'n goeie geskenk wees vir 'n wynliefhebber om 'n rukkie te gaan lê.

Siduri Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir 2016 (B+) ($ 31)

Vir 'n Pinot Noir met soveel alkohol as 'n Napa Cab, is hierdie wyn redelik gebalanseerd. Daar kom geen hitte op die oppervlak van die wyn in die glas nie en dit ruik soos 'n kampvuur van 'n paar kilometer weg saam met ryp kersies. Die smaak is taai en ek wil dit kou. Die subtiele kampvuurvlam tref ook die smaak, wat sorg vir 'n baie aangename wyn wat u met die ABV kan insluip.

Fel Anderson Valley Pinot Noir 2018 (B+) ($ 38)

Grawe jy groot wyne, maar wil jy Pinot Noir ervaar, wetende dat dit ligter is? Dit is 'n wonderlike oorgangsbottel, en dit kan selfs saam met steak geëet word. Dit is sag en sagte, maar diep en soet. Die alkohol is hoog, maar dit neem nie die balans weg nie. Dit is 'n groter Pinot, maar as u 'n ligter rooi kleur kry, is dit 'n goeie begin.

Dutton-Goldfield Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir 2017 (B+) ($ 39)

Dit is 'n soliede en beskikbare Sonoma Pinot Noir. Dit is die soort bottel wat jy saam met goeie vriende na 'n intieme aandete bring. Dit is ryk, maar gebalanseerd, en toon steeds dat dit 'n Pinot is, as jy wil. Die neus herinner u aan kersiekola en 'n bietjie vanielje, en die smaak het 'n goeie gewig sonder om te veel te wees. As dit nie 'n aandete is nie, sal hierdie bottel ook goed wees by 'n wyn- en kaaspartytjie of as 'n wynklub -toevoeging.

Sotheby ’s: Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2017 (B+) ($ 40)

Dit is 'n ryk, digte Sonoma Pinot Noir. Die vrugte is donker en daar is 'n greep op die smaak. Dit sal 'n aangename geskenk wees vir 'n genadige gasheer of om tydens 'n ete saam te bring of uit te trek. Dit het die suurheid om te jiveer met 'n wyn- en kaaspartytjie, en die volheid om te voldoen aan die vleisgereg as dit tydens 'n aandete aangebied word.

Hierdie verhaal is deel van VP Pro, ons gratis inhoudsplatform en nuusbrief vir die drankbedryf, wat wyn, bier en drank dek - en verder. Teken nou in vir VP Pro!


Die trekplek

As u na die wynverkope luister, hoor u net die krag van handelsmerke. 'Kyk na Australië,' kraai hulle. "Hulle slaan die bejeezus uit Bordeaux. Merke is die weg van die toekoms. Die Franse idee dat die plek alles is, is passé."

Maar as u die wyndistrikte van die sentrale kus van Kalifornië besoek - Santa Barbara County, Edna Valley, Arroyo Grande, Paso Robles, Monterey County - ontdek u 'n heeltemal ander wynwerklikheid. In 'n neutedop trek hulle hulself uitmekaar, geskeur deur die plek.

Ek het onlangs drie weke intensief deurgebring by tientalle wynkelders in die sentrale kus. En dit is verstommend om te sien hoeveel daar verander het.

Neem byvoorbeeld Santa Barbara County. Tien jaar gelede het almal daar oor hulleself gepraat as 'Santa Barbara County'. Niks meer nie. Nou het drie afsonderlike wynlande ontstaan: Santa Rita Hills, Santa Ynez Valley en Santa Maria Valley. Santa Rita Hills is 'n keuse voorbeeld. Dit is wes van snelweg 101 geleë, in 'n koel gebied wat deur die oseaan beïnvloed word met kalkryke gronde (kalksteen, kryt en klei). 'N Dekade gelede was daar net drie noemenswaardige wingerde in die gebied: Lafond, Babcock en Sanford & Benedict.

Sedertdien het 'n paar diep sakke besluit dat Santa Rita Hills die plek is om Pinot Noir te plant. Hulle het dus die nuwe Dijon -klone en nuwe onderstamme geïnstalleer. Santa Rita Hills wyne verskil van - en is mededingend - Pinot Noirs wat elders in Kalifornië verbou word. Wynkelders soos Foley, Fiddlehead, Sea Smoke, Sanford, Gainey, Melville, Fess Parker en Brewer-Clifton reik pinot noirs uit wat diep gekleur, intens, geurig en oortuigend is.

Dit is 'n wêreld afgesien van die naburige Santa Ynez -vallei, wat warmer is. Dit sien sy toekoms in die skep van Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Cabernet Franc en Grenache. Wynkelders soos Carhartt, Tensley, Stolpman en Beckman gee uitstekende Syrah uit. Daar is wonderlike Grenache (Beckman is die leier), Merlot (soek Carhartt) en Cabernet Franc (Bedford-Thompson), sowel as Bordeaux-tipe versnitte (Stolpman).

En dan is daar die koel Santa Maria -vallei, wat die werkspergesone is, beroemd om sy ryk, weelderige, tropiese Chardonnays en minder uitnodigende Pinot Noirs met onversetlike plantnote, kamfer en tamatie. (Dit blyk 'n klonale probleem.) Sodra die publiek die nuwe Pinot Noirs van Santa Rita Hills proe, sal verbruikers waarskynlik die Santa Maria Valley Pinots ten gunste van die nuwe skoonheid op die blok verwerp.

Is dit onregverdig? Ja en nee. Santa Maria Valley only needs to replant to the newer clones to get back in the game. But that takes time (and ambition). In the meantime, Santa Rita Hills will acquire cachet while Santa Maria Valley will first have to shrug off its old image.

Farther north, in Paso Robles, you've got what might be called the "great east/west schism." Highway 101 has become the convenient, if hardly exact, dividing line. East of that magic marker, many of the vineyards are vast, quite warm, and in service to big brands (J. Lohr, Meridian, Fetzer). The quality, actually, is surprisingly high, including soft, richly fruity Syrah and Cabernet.

But west of Highway 101 is a world apart: much cooler with more calcareous soil than I've seen anywhere else in California. (Everybody can show you petrified whale bones!) Actually, east of 101 has some of this soil too, but less so.

You know what's happened, of course. Small, highly ambitious wineries have emerged west of 101, creating distinctive, limestone-inflected wines. You've got the showcase Justin Winery, which makes most Napa Valley wineries look shabby chic. A revived Adelaida Cellars will make a major mark in the next few years with its new vineyards. Saxum, a micro-winery, makes one of the finest Syrahs I've tasted from anywhere. Not least is Tablas Creek, created by the Perrin family of Château de Beaucastel fame and their importer, Robert Haas.

Is there a Paso Robles anymore? Nie regtig nie. The east-of-101 crowd resents how they are seen as working stiffs while the west-of-101 set gets the uptown image. It's not fair, but there's also no denying that two different wine worlds do exist, legitimately based on soil and temperature.

So, if you thought Americans were different from the French, think again. There's no resisting the pull of place -- which is just what the French have been telling us all along.


Robb Recommends: A Groundbreaking New Pinot Noir From One of the World’s Top Winemakers

Philippe Cambie is the Grenache whisperer. He has made 15 wines that earned a perfect 100 points from Robert Parker, consulting on a vast array of vintages, most widely in his home base of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, where he&rsquos become known as the master of the region’s favored varietal. Through 2018, though, Cambie had never made a Pinot Noir. What would lure a Rhône Valley winemaker to Burgundy&rsquos red grape and Oregon and California&rsquos famously pure voice of terroir? Well, in Châteauneuf they call Grenache the &ldquoPinot Noir&rdquo of the region, and Cambie simply couldn’t resist the chance to apply his Grenache-whispering skills to Pinot stateside.

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The likeliest partner in such a venture was his friend Adam Lee, widely known as a Pinot guru through his Siduri wines and newer Clarice brand. Considering that Lee is a veteran of the variety&mdashfrom Santa Barbara County up through Monterey, Sonoma, Mendocino and Oregon&rsquos Willamette Valley&mdashI had to ask him: Did the West Coast need another Pinot-focused winery? What could you add to the lexicon, to the range of the wine here, with Beau Marchais (the brand Cambie and Lee launched)? And why concentrate on California? He took the last one first. &ldquoHistorically, the French winemakers who have come to the New World to work with Pinot Noir have headed to Oregon,&rdquo Lee says. &ldquoPresumably that&rsquos because the climate is viewed as more similar to Burgundy. But Philippe is the finest producer of Grenache in the world, so getting his interpretation of somewhat warmer-climate California Pinot Noir only made sense. I&rsquom hoping it leads consumers to consider Pinot somewhat differently.&rdquo

Taking their direction from Cambie, these first Beau Marchais wines&mdashone from Monterey County&rsquos Santa Lucia Highlands and two from Santa Barbara&rsquos Sta. Rita Hills&mdashstretch Lee&rsquos typical lean-alcohol, structured profile. They&rsquore riper and richer, with upfront deliciousness across the board. The Beau Marchais 2019 Sobranes Vineyard Pinot Santa Lucia Highlands ($95) combines haunting florals, black tea and blackberry confiture with a plush and velvety mouth-feel. The 2019 Clos Pepe Vineyard Ouest Pinot Sta. Rita Hills ($95) opens with pine forest and ocean salinity before melting into juicy cherry and blueberry with underlying warm baking spices&mdashstructured and vibrant, as well as ripe. And the 2019 Clos Pepe Vineyard Est Pinot Sta. Rita Hills ($95) leads with lovely minerality and savory tobacco and licorice, then exudes sweet fruit&mdashblack raspberry, strawberry, and cherry&mdashover fine tannins. This is a long, opulent, textural wine.

Photo: courtesy Dianna Novy

Lee is quick to describe how these wines veer from his own traditional patterns. &ldquoI&rsquom really working with Philippe&rsquos winemaking protocol&mdashwhat he has done to make some of the finest wines in Châteauneuf-du-Pape&mdashand the world, quite frankly,&rdquo he says. &ldquoSo everything, from the time on the skins (much longer than what I usually do), the amount of whole cluster (less than on my wines), ripeness levels (a bit riper) and barrels chosen are different.&rdquo All of this, Lee admits, has pulled him out of his comfort zone&mdashstagnation he even calls it. &ldquoLooking at Pinot Noir through Philippe&rsquos eyes has allowed me to view the grape differently. It&rsquos almost like being a kid in a candy story, looking at things anew again.&rdquo

For his part, Cambie sees the project through a personal lens. &ldquoIt&rsquos the story of a Franco-American friendship,&rdquo he says. &ldquoI love Pinot, and particularly the great American Pinots. The proposal to make a Pinot with Adam seemed obvious to me. We all have a vision of the elaboration of wines, but a team vision will always be more efficient. This project was a dream come true.&rdquo

There&rsquos irony in the outcome here. Under the direction of one of France&rsquos most-respected winemakers, the inaugural Beau Marchais Pinot Noirs, in a sense, carry more New World character than most of Lee&rsquos former West Coast versions do. But they&rsquore beautiful and nuanced, balanced in their richness&mdasha welcome addition to the lexicon.


Kim Crawford Marlborough Pinot Noir

Last week, a colleague at my day job started picking my brain about wine. She told me that she recently graduated to pinot noir after years of drinking nothing but Champagne and disgustingly-sweet riesling. OK, I embellished with the “disgustingly-sweet” part, but that’s basically what it sounded like she was drinking. And then she told me about her favorite pinot noir, which I can’t remember the name of but it sounded like something with a cute label and lots of residual sugar—not my cup of tea. But it was a good reminder to me of the perspective of the everyday wine consumer.

As someone who tastes different wines every day and travels the world tasting some of the best wines out there, I have a different perspective than the average wine consumer. But that’s not where I started. When I first started writing about wine I was wowed by fruit-bomb wines, loaded with residual sugar, that tasted good despite being unsophisticated and out of balance. I can still understand the appeal of those wines, and occasionally I’ll still drink them. But I’m not ashamed to admit that I’ve become a wine snob. I often hear wine bloggers say that they’re “taking the snobbery out of wine.” Bullshit! If you critique wine, you’re a snob. Those of us who wax poetic about wine are all wine snobs and we’re all quite ridiculous to make such a fuss about wine.

But most wine consumers aren’t that fussy about their wine. They want something that tastes good to them. They often want to become “more knowledgeable” about wine, but ultimately if a wine tastes good to them it’s good enough.

Getting back to my colleague, she wants to broaden her palate and explore new wines. So she challenged me to find a new pinot noir for her that will be balanced, complex, interesting, tasty and affordable. (Again, I embellished a little bit, she just asked to find her “another pinot noir”).

This wine is my first stab at meeting this challenge. It will be a touch lighter than what she’s used to, but it still has plenty of fruit and some spicy aromatics to make it interesting.

Sometimes when I pour a pinot noir it looks far too dense, but this one is just right with a light red appearance. The nose is well balanced and beautiful offering strawberry, raspberry, nutmeg, cedar and violet aromatics. There’s a lot going on here, but it’s harmoniously balanced. The palate is also quite nice, although a touch more concentration and density would have made it better—and I do mean just a touch. But the flavors are all good, such as cherry, raspberry and cranberry. There is a hint of bitterness on the finish, which I could do without. Good acidity, good mouthfeel. Overall, it’s a good, medium-bodied wine that’s best with food.

Wyn: Kim Crawford
Variety: Pinot Noir
Vintage: 2011
Alcohol: 13.5%
Rating: 87
Price: $17.00

Soek Kim Crawford Marlborough Pinot Noir met Snooth


What To Drink Now: Thanksgiving Pinot Noir

There are many options to go to when planning your Thanksgiving wine to pair with your Thanksgiving meal, but for me Pinot Noir is always a solid go to which will suit both the meal and your dinner guests. Somewhat like a Labrador Retriever, Pinot Noir (especially New World Pinot) is a super likable, friendly wine that has the ability to please just about any palate and pairs well with everything from roasted turkey, to cranberries, to sweet potatoes, to pumpkin pie. Here are a few suggestions that will make you thankful for Pinot. If you just insist on serving a spicy Zin, Syrah, Beaujolais or Grenache on this special day I will have a list of others up soon, but for now it is all about Pinot. A few selections were sent for editorial consideration.

Etude Winery, may be best known perhaps for their Heirloom wines, but just the basic Etude Estate Pinot Noir from fruit grown in their Carneros, Napa Valley vineyards enahnces any dinner table any time of year, but particularly with the Thanksgiving meal. From cool, maritime influenced fruit, and created with the belief that the winemaking happens in the vineyard and not in the winery, the Etude Pinot Noir is filled with concentrated cherry, blackberry and red berry jam flavors enhanced with touches of soy, star anise, clove and slight minerality from the clay and gravel soils of Carneros.

Etude founder Tony Soter, left California for Willamette Valley to start Soter Vineyards, creating the winery in 1997 with the help of his wife (and Portland, OR native) Michelle, and their children, believing the Willamette Valley soils of their sustainably farmed 240 acre Mineral Springs Ranch in the Yamhill-Carlton District was ideal for creating his next great Pinot Noir wines. The Mineral Springs Ranch (green label) Pinot Noir defines the area in a glass – ripe, red cranberry, pomegrantate and persimmon fruit, balanced but present earthiness, lush tannins and a sikly, lingering finish.

Also in Oregon, Adelsheim was one of the first and remains one of the most celebrated wineries in Willamette Valley. Their Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir a perfect go to wine if you are looking for a well-rounded, elegant and always delicious flavor profile that has been made from a blend of the best Pinot Noir barrels since its first bottling in 1986. Filled with strawberry and raspberry notes married with sweet baking spice, cedar and just the right balance of earthiness.

The Jory soils of the Dundee Hills in Willamette Valley are known to produce earthy, mineral rich and refined Pinot Noir. Two excellent examples come from Domaine Serene with their Evanstad Reserve and Winderlea, with their Ana Pinot Noir, both some of the best from the Dundee Hills, balancing fruit with spice, and spice with earth to create luscious, interesting and always tasty Pinot Noir.

The sustainable and biodynamic vineyards of Benziger Winery make many great wines including their Pinot Noir from Russian River, easily one of the best areas in the world for growing Pinot Noir, though often more fruit forward and fresh than those of Willamette Valley. This one is filled with layers of red berry, currant, vanilla and spice with good tannin, texture and balanced acidity, making it a great food wine.

Also from Russian River I was recently introduced to a new winery, Inman Family Wines owned by winemaker Kathleen Inman, making nicely aged Pinot Noir (17 months in partially new French barrels) from grapes picked at three different times to ensure the ultimate ripeness was achieved when they picked. This is a big wine, yet still elegant and sillky as you would expect from Russian River fruit. Filled with ripe fruit, wild roses, black tea and anise with touch of chocolate and cedar on the finish. Rich, textured and refined, a great new Pinot Noir find.

In addition to those from Willamette, I am particullary partial to the Pinot of Santa Lucia Highlands, especially those from wineries like Miner, Vision Cellars and Siduri.

Miner Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot from the southwest facing slope of the Santa Lucia Mountains is fruit forward, spicy and always, always enjoyable. Fresh cherry and plum mix with cinnamon, nutmeg and cedar with a touch of violet and lilac floral notes for a luscious, velvety and delicious Pinot Noir.

Vision Cellars, owned by the incredible and talented, Texas native Mac McDonald, specializes in very small production, very high quality Pinot Noir from fruit grown throughout Northern California. Their Gary’s Vineyard Pinot Noir blends blackberry and black cherry fruit with layers of earth and spice, and just the right balance of tannin, for a wine that will pair well through the holidays with anything from the Thanksgiving turkey to the Christmas beef tenderloin.

Siduri Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir blend some of the best fruit from the area, including 33% Sierra Mar Vineyard fruit, 24% Rosella’s Vineyard, 21% Pisoni Vineyard, 19% Garys’ Vineyard, and 3% Soberanes Vineyard Pinot Noir. The longstanding trust and relationship these vineyard owners have with Siduri owners/winemakers Dianna and Adam Lee ensures that this prized fruit makes its way to the Siduri warehouse each harvest for them to create their award winning Pinot Noir. Filled with ripe red cherry, red plum and cranberry with sweet spice, toasted cedar and a touch of smokiness this is a Pinot that will please anyone at your table.

The cool climate of the Sonoma Coast is ideal for growing balanced Pinot Noir with character and personality. The wines of Freestone and Fog Dog, Kistler, MacMurry Ranch and David Bruce consistently deliver. I tried a new one from Jenner Vineyards recently. Very affordable for Pinot Noir (about $20 a bottle) and filled with fresh violets, bing cherry and vanilla with a good balance between acidity and tannin, making it an ideal food wine.

The from Casablanca Valley in Chile is fast becoming known for their juicy, earthy and slightly smoky Pinot Noir. The Morande Gran Reserva Pinot Noir highlights this with layers of ripe wild strawberry, cherry, sweet spice, fresh herbs, roses and a touch of earthy minerality.


Hajdu Winery (AKA Brobdingnagian Winery) continues to prove he has more than just a cool name

If you follow my blog at all, you will find references to Brobdignagian, Brobdingnagian, and Hajdu all over – go ahead and search! Anyway, with the number of times that I have been writing about Hajdu, and Covenant (where he is associate winemaker), I realized it was due time to talk about one of California’s best and still hidden kosher wineries.

I met Jonathan quite a few years back, but even before that I “met” him through the Weiss Brothers (AKA Shirah Winery) and Benyamin (Four Gates Winery). Hajdu is one of those consummate winemakers that has continuously, through the years, shown his mettle and amazing palate. However, before we get ahead of ourselves we need to step back and weave in the background story of Hajdu. Hajdu fell into the world of wine when he was studying archeology at University at Albany-SUNY in NY. It was there, when bored with studies of things buried deep in the ground, dating back thousands of years ago, that he found the wonderful elixir called wine in local area wine bars. This was in the late 1990s, and I find it amazing that wine bars existed in a college town so many years ago!

Well soon after school, Hajdu went to study in Yeshiva in Israel, and it was there that he met a woman, and followed her to Melbourne Australia, which turned out to be a great place to study viticulture at the Swinburne University, and to work on a few vineyards in the Yarra Valley. Things did not work out on the dating front, so Hajdu returned to New York, and one thing led to another and a friend told him about a job at Copain Custom Crush Llc in 2003. It was a great job for so many reasons, the main one being that there Hajdu honed his winemaking skills, till now he was a viticulturist, and he learned the skill of working on many small lots and crushes inside a very large wine facility, something that would come in very handy in the coming years at Covenant, but again we are getting ahead of the story.

In late 2003 Herzog was in need of more skilled hands, so Hajdu signed on – and it was at this point that one has to see the hand of God here. First of all, it was here that the Shirah/Weiss boys would eventually meet up with Hajdu, along with Jack Levin, who was part of the initial Shirah creations. This group (Levin was not yet there in 2005) was the group that created the first Shirah wine – 2005 Shirah Syrah with fruit from Alamo Creek. For the next two years they worked together at Herzog and it was that time, in my opinion, that the desire and yearn to build great wines from both Shirah and Hajdu was created.

While, Hajdu was at Herzog winery another very important coincidence occurred, it was there that Hajdu met Jeff Morgan, co-owner and winemaker of Covenant Winery. At that time, Covenant was making their 2003 through 2006 vintages in Herzog’s winery in Santa Maria, CA where the winery existed before it moved to Oxnard. It was then that Hajdu worked with Jeff on the 2003, 2004 vintages of Covenant wines in Santa Maria (where Herzog was before Oxnard) and then 2005 in Oxnard as well.

In 2006 Hajdu had a yearning to return to Israel, so he picked up and went to work in Carmel winery after talking with Sam Saroka, then the head winemaker at Carmel Winery, Saroka is now the head winemaker of Mony Winery. After a year in Israel, Hajdu returned without any real plans but in search of more than just a wine job but also a person who would eventually become his wife. However, when he first arrived in NY, he tried to line things up, but one thing did not lead to another and plans kept falling through, which was for the best in so many ways! It was in NY, late 2007 that he met his to-be wife and where he re-caught the bug and passion to create his own wines – under the Brobdingnagian label.

So, in later 2007, he flew back and forth, while dating and eventually getting engaged to his wife, to make wine in Santa Barbara CA. Having little place or money to live, he scrounged and found ways to make do for six weeks from harvest till fermentation and barreling his wines. These were the famous 2007 Grenache and Syrah that literally put Hajdu and the Brobdingnagian name on the map!

By the way, it is Hajdu’s wife whose artistic talents can be found draped all over Jonathan’s wine work (she makes the labels for his wines), and personally, the 2011 Proprietary Red wine with the turtle is one of the loveliest labels in Hajdu’s portfolio. Though they are all lovely, from the elephant riding a unicycle on the Syrah bottles, to the whale or the ostrich, they are all lovely, but the turtle steals the show for me, label wise.

So, after making the wine in 2007 and marrying in early 2008, Hajdu was still in search of a job and was talking with Morgan when it all clicked, and Hajdu was hired in 2008 to be Covenant’s assistant winemaker and its mashgiach (kosher wine supervisor) at the winery. Covenant winery moved from Oxnard in 2008, and it now needed a full-time kosher wine supervisor because the winery moved to Napa in a crush facility that was not all locked and kosher, like it was in Oxnard at Herzog Winery.

It was at this point that I really met Hajdu in person. Until this point, I knew of him through Binyamin Cantz of Four Gates Winery, a personal friend and winemaker. Binyamin is one of those very unassuming but truly connected people in the world of kosher wine. Hoekom? I think because people like him, love his wine, and like talking with him. Binyamin accompanied me down to the 2008 IFWF International Food and Wine Festival) in Oxnard, CA, the first ever IFWF. Hajdu was pouring the Covenant wines at the Herzog section. It was great to met both Jeff Morgan and Hajdu, and the Covenant wines were lovely indeed. We met again in San Jose that year, and then after that we met when I would go up to the Covenant Winery.

As the associate winemaker at Covenant, Hajdu helped with all aspects of Covenant Winery and continued to make his own wines as well. As described here, Hajdu made a wine again in 2008 a field blend of grapes that he called Besomim with Rabbi Tenenbaum. He did that again in 2009 along with a Syrah under the Brobdingnagian (Brob for short) label. It was finally in 2010 that Hajdu returned to his Grenache roots, along with more Syrah, and his first ever Petite Verdot and Petite Sirah. In 2010 Hajdu kept the Besomim label alive and well, but the field blend vineyard was gone so he went with a blend of his three Rhone Varietals Syrah, Petite Sirah (yeah yeah not a true Rhone varietal – but it has been adopted by the Rhone Rangers), and Grenache. This was also the year that Hajdu increased his case count for 100 or so to 300 cases. That number would grow in time, but that was already a huge jump and the wines in 2010 were truly impressive.

In 2011 Hajdu started to tinker with making custom barrels, and started to work with clients to allow them to make and define blends for custom barrels that they would buy. The 2011 vintage was tough, and if there was ever a bump in the road for his wines it may have been this year. Still, 2011 was also the first year where Hajdu made his now famous – Red Proprietary blend from Howell Mountain grapes. Red Proprietary is a blend of Cabernet and Merlot that blew the doors off of my mind when I first tasted it and continues to impress. The 2011 vintage was also the year of the new Makom label, which was released with Carignan fruit. The wine was light and fruity, not the beast that Brob conjures up, or that Carmel was making back in 2006 under their Appellation label, or the Recanati Carignan from 2009. Still, it was a lovely fruity wine and one that did Makom proud. The 2011 vintage also saw another Grenache, Syrah, and an NV Besomim, which was a blend of Petite Sirah and Zinfandel.

The 2012 vintage blew off the doors with both quality and unique varietals, and rivals the 2010 vintage, which was also incredible. First was the early release in 2012, of a new Makom wine made of Grenache Blanc, the first ever-kosher wine made of this varietal that I know of or care for. It was also the return of everything other than a pure Petite Verdot or Carignan, including Petite Sirah, Syrah, Grenache, a new Cabernet Franc, another Howell Mountain, and a new Pinot Noir. The Pinot Noir would come under the Makom label, along with the Grenache Blanc. The rest would go under either the Brob label or a new Hajdu label with vertical colored lines.

With all the labels and wines under control, Hajdu has now created a winery that while still small and boutique, commands the attention of many a kosher wine buyer. The wines are very Brobdingnagian in style, big and bold – but they are also controlled and show great finesse when needed. The wines are almost a sure bet, with a “miss” here and there, and even those would be wines most wineries would dream to have made! I think the label with the elephant riding a unicycle says it best – big and massive animal controlling the direction with finesse and acumen that is Brobdignagian wine is a sentence or an image!

As stated before, I had the chance to talk and enjoy Hajdu’s knowledge and abilities when I was invited to the 27 course dinner with Hajdu and Bernstein. Since then we have met on and off whether with friends or to see the winery. Still, it had been 6 months since I last tasted the wines and now that the white and rose 2013 and 2012 red wines were released it was time to meet and catch up on what has been happening with Hajdu winery.

When asked about the wines he makes – he and the Weiss boys have clear leanings to the Rhone Varietals. I think the two of them, along with Netofa Winery. are the kosher manifestation of the Rhone Rangers. Who else produces Grenache wines (Capcanes but that is all in terms of Rhone wines). Who else produces them all? Who else produces Grenache Blanc? Viognier, Roussane by the Wiess Brothers, Chenin Blanc by Netofa along with Syrah and Mourvedre. These are the real kosher Rhone Rangers, wineries with a passion of what grows well in their area and each with their own twist and passion to deliver kosher wine that is not just another Cab or Merlot. The good news is that the Rhone religion is catching on and that we will see more Grenache, Mourvedre, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Marselan, and others. It is the success of Hajdu and the Weiss brothers, and the realization that Israel, California, and Spain are better suited for these grapes than the classic noble varieties – that has helped propel the adoption of these grapes in the kosher world. Clearly, with his expansion Hajdu has added some varietals that are not Rhone in nature, but the style of the wines are always the same, bold, balanced, with great acid. Though there is a new Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, I think Hajdu still feels the pull for Rhone and thank goodness for that, as there are so few willing to take the Rhone Ranger pledge!

Hajdu is always the consummate gentleman and winemaker, and his wife and family are absolutely fantastic. For the past few weeks I have been sick and really out of it, but I finally have come out of my haze and I called Hajdu asking if I could swing by and taste the new wines. I arrived in the evening and for the next few hours we spoke wine, tasted wine, and I had an absolute ball of a time. The fact that I have not gotten to this posting earlier is all on me and I am truly sorry for that. I highly recommend that you contact Jonathan Hajdu @ Hajduwines.com and order the new rose it is really and truly unique. The wine is up there as one of the best kosher rose wines out there! It is NOT a bleed off/saignee wine rather it is a Pinot Gris wine that blew me away. That and the next Makom Grenache Blanc are the only two 2013 wines that we tasted, with the rest being the 2012 wines. They are all wonderful, and the Grenache really needs time to express itself. The Franc is lovely and ripe the Syrah is seriously demented and sick, with an inky structure to die for. The Petite Sirah is not ready yet, for now get the wines, leave the Syrah and Petite Sirah to the side and enjoy the rest.

My many thanks to Jonathan and his wife for letting me crash so close to Passover, and for their lovely hospitality and warmness. My wine notes follow below:


Trout with mushrooms

Spring teases us here in California with a gorgeous sunny day but then retreats from an angry rain. The menu above, light but warming, strives to satisfy regardless of what the weather gods deliver. Trout preparations are normally simple to highlight the sweet flavors of the fish. With the addition of aromatic vegetables and dried mushrooms, the fish gains substance. The recipe below is adapted from the Silver Spoon, Phaidon Press Ltd., my favorite cookbook these days.

Bestanddele

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

Voorverhit die oond tot 350 grade. Put mushrooms in a bowl, add warm water to cover, and let soak. Season the cavities of the trout with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the thyme. Drizzle an ovenproof dish with olive oil, place the trout in the dish, and rub both sides of the trout in the oil. Add onion, carrot, and celery. Drizzle with a little more olive oil, cover, and bake for ten minutes. Drain and squeeze water from the mushrooms. Remove cover from the baking dish and add wine and mushrooms and bake for another 15 minutes. Lewer vier.


Kyk die video: WineSmith 2018 Grenache (Junie 2022).


Kommentaar:

  1. Arashilrajas

    Wees veilig.

  2. Verrell

    Well done, what a necessary phrase ..., the magnificent idea

  3. Montie

    Ek is jammer, dat ek niks kan help nie. Ek hoop jy sal hier deur ander gehelp word.

  4. Hwistlere

    Bravo, die bewonderenswaardige idee en dit is tydig

  5. Amenhotep

    In my opinion, someone here has concentrated



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